What is a Suit Jacket? | Anatomy, Fabrics & The "Orphaning" Rule
In our last post, we established the suit jacket as the most formal garment in the tailored triumvirate. It is the uniform of professionalism, ceremony, and life's most important moments.
But what truly sets it apart? It’s all in the details. A mass-produced suit is built for a mannequin. A bespoke suit from Phan's Custom Tailor is built for you. Let's explore its anatomy.
1. The Anatomy of a Suit Jacket
Every detail is chosen to create a sleek, powerful, and uniform silhouette.
Structure & Shoulders: A suit jacket is traditionally structured. It features internal canvassing and shoulder padding to build a strong, V-shaped silhouette. This is architecture, not just clothing.
Buttons: The buttons are designed to blend in. They are almost always the same color as the fabric, made from horn, corozo, or high-quality resin. The goal is uniformity, not contrast.
Pockets: The pockets are sleek and minimalist. The most common is the Flap Pocket. For the most formal suits (like tuxedos), you will find Jetted Pockets (a simple, clean slit), which are the most formal option.
2. The Fabric
Suit jacket fabrics are chosen for their smoothness and crisp finish. The most common is Worsted Wool, known for its strength and subtle sheen , or Tuytsi (wool blends). This fine, smooth fabric is what makes it look out of place without its matching trousers.
3. The Golden Rule: Never "Orphan" Your Suit Jacket
This is the most critical piece of advice we give our clients: Never wear your suit jacket as a blazer..
This mistake, known as "orphaning," is a cardinal sin for two reasons:
The Formality Clash: The sleek, shiny worsted wool of a business suit clashes jarringly with the rugged, casual texture of denim or chinos.
Uneven Wear: This is the practical sin. When you wear the jacket separately, it's exposed to sunlight, friction, and dry cleaning far more often than its trousers. Over time, the jacket will fade, and it will no longer match the trousers—permanently destroying your entire suit.
A suit jacket is an investment. At Phan's Custom Tailor, we create suits designed to last a lifetime. Protecting that investment is paramount. Let us help you build your foundational wardrobe.
